Killa Kans 1

I've had a slightly converted Kan sat on my workstation for around a year now, recently I finally decided to try out some rust techniques.

I'm still using some Citadel Paints from the early '90s, right through the range up to current date, so have tried to include comparisons to the new range below.

Here are the methods I used to get to where I am currently in the pictures below, apologies for some of the washed out images due to the flash;

1. Base coat Chaos Black/Abaddon Black.
2. Paint the whole model with Tin Bits/Warplock Bronze.
3. Heavily drybrush with Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher.
4. Wash the whole model with a thinned out Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade.
5. Drybrush with Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher.
6. Carefully and lightly stipple and drybrush random parts of the model with Scorched Brown/Rhinox Hide
7. Repeat step 5 with Bestial Brown?/Gorthor Brown, but apply even less paint this time.
8. Lightly drybrush and stipple the model with Ryza Rust layering the Brown areas slightly more than other areas.
9. Drybrush and stipple again lightly with Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher, making sure most edges and areas that protrude are covered. (Don't go too heavy with this step as you can find yourself ending up back at step 3 very quickly!).
10. Any colours to be added can then be painted on in whatever areas you choose, mainly covering the Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher, leaving patches of rust showing through giving a chipped and worn effect. (Here I built up layers of blue, starting with a base of Regal Blue/Kantor Blue, then onto Mordian Blue/Macragge Blue and Ultramarines Blue/Altdorf Guard Blue).
11. Highlight any areas/colours necessary and add detail where needed such as wires and lights etc..
12. (I still need to do these next few steps as follow). Using Typhus Corrosion pick out any areas which you imagine may form grime, and thin down the paint and apply leaving an effect of streaks or drips.
13. If you really want to add something extra to the model and are familiar with pigments, carefully dust them on treating them as if you were drybrushing, if you find yourself going wrong here the just gently dust the pigment off and start again.
14. Finally gently seal the pigments with rubbing alcohol (I personally find this easier to use) or a form of sealent or wash.
15. And there you have it, a proper rusty and Orky looking model!

Killa Kan:

The Close Combat arm here shows upto Step 5.

Here you can see the beginning of Steps 10 and 11.

I Managed to pick up these Vallejo Pigments at a bargain price from Dark Sphere.